Triumph head gasket install

Typically non-annealed copper head gaskets are harder to bend thus causing leaks if you install them "as-is". Triumph copper head gaskets. Top "annealed", bottom "non-annealed". When you anneal copper it expands and becomes soft and pliable thus giving you a seal once the copper has been compressed.

I usually use a Bernzomatic MAPP gas torc h and heat the entire copper gasket until its "cherry red" then quickly dump it in a bucket of cold water to quench it. If your torch cannot get the entire gasket "cherry red" all at the same time, it will be fine. Just make sure that the copper head gasket at one point reaches it's hottest potential. I do not have the exact temperature in which the copper gasket should be heated to when annealing it.

Some manufacturers will not anneal a new copper head gasket when they sell it, but I often wonder why? They may skip out on that step to p erhaps save time and money, but i n reality, that step is THE most important. MAPP gas torch by Bernzomatic. Can be found at most local hardware or autoparts stores. Timofeyowepe July 25, Fedorfloli July 25, You are right all the oil galleries are on the otherside of the block and looking at pictures of head gaskets, I can't see where it can be coming from, if it is not the gasket.

It could be coming from the inlet manifold, but there is no smoke either on full load or high speed over run, rough running or obvious leaks from the front carb. Plugs are clean and rocker cover gasket is totally sealed. Tried to see up behind the manifold with a small inspection mirror and a light, but all I can see is the line of oil disappearing out of sight to wards the gasget.

Hi Roger I had the generator off yesterday for other reasons voltage regulator failed in dynamator - dynamo back on again , and there was no obvious oil around the rear bracket, the oil is coming down from somewhere behind the exhaust manifold inline with the manifold stud between no2 inlet port and no3 exhaust port.

If the identification is correct then Mark an analytical stripdown is required taking care to examine as each component is removed especially the manifolds to help gain further details. As you can see from the oil transfer hole positioned in the gasket it is positioned at the rear and towards the passenger side so if oil is leaking from there it has to traverse the cylinders and find a way forward.

I should carry out a compression test before head removal to see if all is well, and conform the uniformity of the compressions. If the gasket has gone a favourite place is at the rear often caused by the liner subsiding into the block a couple of thou reducing the clamp pressure this would likely reduce the clamp around the oil hole sealing and allow some oil to escape spreading across the surface and maybe as far forward as the area shown in the photo, although I think that's a wild card and something I've not experienced.

Please report back as you progress, it will be interesting to bottom this. Mick Richards. Hi Mick, yes I plan to remove inlet manifold and exhaust carefully to check what I can see, will also recheck the compressions.

I'll report back once I can get time to do it. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Restore formatting. Only 75 emoji are allowed.

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Lebro Posted October 2, Try the TR shop Bob. It's never happened to me. I'm not sure how you'd eliminate the possibility though. It even will seal a head that is a lightly wavy or weak. In an emergency we have glued wire onto both sides of the gasket. With a steel gasket, we have found that. It does not compress enough, holds the head up to high, so there is a tendency for water to leak out the sides of the head and up the studs. We have found that dead soft copper wire between. We glue it in place with contact cement or "gask-g-cinch" which will work like a contact cement.

It is important to use good hard head nut washers, like those from ARP.